Turkey in a Nutshell

Turkish lamps in the Grand Bazaar

Sara's Top 5:
Hot air balloon in Cappadocia

Bosphorus cruise in Istanbul

Ephesus
A day on the water in Kas

Dalyan

David's Top 5:
Bosphorus cruise
Hot air balloon in Cappadocia

Wandering the Old City of Istanbul

Ephesus/Sirince

The snow-white cliffs at Pamukkale

Impressions:  Turkey is amazing!  With an entire month we felt like we really got to experience a lot of different aspects of the country from the people and food to the nature to the ancient sites.  The smells, the sounds, the colors, and the tastes all make Turkey unique!  We loved that we could rent a car and have the freedom to get around on our own at our own pace. 

People:  We really enjoyed the local Turks that we met.  Drinking tea takes up a huge part of their day.  They do it often that it really tells you something about their culture -- they aren't a people who are generally in a rush.  Almost every street in Istanbul has a shop with short stools out front where you can stop for a glass of tea.  Many people do throughout the day.

Food:  The food in Turkey was a highlight of the month!  We had so much fun trying all of the different dishes, but the things we ate time and time again were tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, cheese, eggplant, bread, and haydari.  One thing we were expecting to see more of was hummus.  At the majority of restaurants it wasn’t even on the menu.  Haydari, a cucumber and yogurt dip, was the staple instead.  Good thing we loved the haydari!   (As we write this we are in Jordan and Israel enjoying hummus with almost every meal – we weren’t expecting so much of it here).  Tea is another staple in Turkey and by the end of our month in the country our meals didn't feel complete without at least one glass!  The nargile is another staple in Turkey.  Our visit would not have been complete without giving it a try with Charles and Christie on our first night in Turkey.

Weather: We arrived in Istanbul at the beginning of July and the weather was perfect!  It was sunny and 80 °F during the day and just a bit cool at night.  After several days in Istanbul we flew to Cappadocia and the weather was nice there, too.  After Cappadocia we headed south and it got hot!  So hot that we were cheering when the car thermometer hit 115 °F!  In Antalya and Kas the best way to keep cool was on the water, and that is just what we did.  

7 Months - Goodbye Turkey!

We celebrated seven months of traveling while flying from Istanbul to Livingstone, Zambia by way of Cairo and Johannesburg.  It sure isn't easy getting between those two cities!

We will be camping in Africa for the next few weeks.  We aren't sure how much internet access to expect, but we can't wait to check in with some new pictures and stories.

Our last sunset in Istanbul on the Galata Bridge

Kadikoy

The port at Kadikoy

We had fun brainstorming all of the different things that we could do in Istanbul for our last day.  We settled on a ferry ride across the Bosphorus to Kadikoy, an upscale port town on the Asian side of Istanbul.  There were hardly any tourists in sight, which was quite a change from Sultanahmet.

With no agenda we wandered around.  We happened upon a fabulous lunch spot -- cheap and delicious, the kind of place that might quickly become our favorite lunch spot in the city if we lived here.  We spent the afternoon wandering, enjoying our last Turkish ice creams, and doing lots of people watching.

A very nice last day in Turkey!

Ramadan in Istanbul

Just after Iftar at the Hippodrome in Istanbul

We weren't expecting that Istanbul would feel so different after only three weeks away, but it really does.  The reason is Ramadan, the holy month of fasting for Muslims.   

On our first night back to the city we wandered up to the Hippodrome, a long paved area used for chariot racing in ancient times but now a lively walkway connecting the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia.  Every inch of grass and pavement along the Hippodrome was being used by families and friends for picnics.  The interesting part is that no one was eating, at least not yet.  The food, the utensils, the bottles of water were ready, but everyone was waiting for Iftar, the evening meal after sunset when Muslims break the fast.  We've learned that those who observe the fast rise before the sun and have a big meal before abstaining from food and drink (including water) until Iftar.  Ramadan is not always in July and this must be a particularly difficult time of year for those fasting because of the long and very hot days. 

Eating a meal in Fatih just after Iftar

Another night we made our way to the Fatih neighborhood just a few tram stops from where we are staying in Sultanahmet.  We were in for another learning experience.  It was about 45 minutes before sunset when we arrived in Fatih.  As we wandered around all of the restaurants had Turkish mezes (appetizers) laid out on the tables and some had people sitting, but no one was eating.  We approached a restaurant to see about getting a table and learned that all of the restaurants in the area serve a set menu Iftar meal.  So we joined in, took a seat, and took notes from the locals, preparing our salads, opening our waters, and waiting for Iftar.  The loudspeakers on the minarets of the mosques around the city announce the end of fasting at sundown.  As the loudspeakers came to life, we took a moment to watch everyone around us gulp down two or three bottles of water and start eating.  Although we hadn't been fasting all day, it was a great experience and we definitely felt the anticipation as we waited for Iftar to begin.

Turkish food

Turkish food is fantastic!   We will let the pictures do the talking. 

A typical Turkish breakfast - lots of cheese, olives, and salads!

Stuffed eggplant, olive puree, haydari, and a tomato, onion and cucumber salad.  A tasty lunch!

Our favorite Balik Ekmek (fish sandwich) near the Galata Bridge in Istanbul.  An excellent dinner!

Turkish ice cream -- the perfect way to cap off a meal!

Back to Istanbul!

We are back in Istanbul for a few days before we fly out to Africa.  The nice thing is that we saw all of the big sights during our time in Istanbul with Charles and Christie, so this time around we look forward to wandering around the city, exploring new neighborhoods, and running a few errands!

Troy and Gallipoli

It would have been hard for anything to live up to the fun of the water park, but Troy certainly didn't do it.  We had heard not to expect much from Troy, but since we were passing by, we figured that it was worth a stop.  The highlight may have been David stretching his Achilles in front of a replica of the Trojan horse!  You can't do that everyday!

David stretching his Achilles at Troy

Since 2,500 B.C. nine different cities were built one on top of the other at Troy.  There must be some really interesting artifacts underground, but for now the excavations and renovations are unimpressive in comparison to many of the other ruins in Turkey.

After a night in the nearby town of Çanakkale, we crossed the Dardanelles by ferry and made the short drive to Gallipoli.  During World War I, Gallipoli was the site of long battles between the Turkish and the New Zealand and Australia (ANZAC) forces.  Today the battlefields are a beautiful national park with touching memorials and cemeteries honoring the fallen soldiers.  We were in our own car and we arrived ahead of the tour groups from Istanbul, so we were able to drive throughout the park and had the place mostly to ourselves.  A very worthwhile side trip.

A cemetery for New Zealand and Australian soldiers at ANZAC Cove on the Gallipoli Peninsula in Turkey

Aqua Olive Park

On our way from Ephesus back to Istanbul along the western coast of Turkey, we passed through the seaside town of Altinoluk.  We were near the end of a long, hot day in the car, and Sara spotted a water park.  We didn't stop because we were planning to stay in another town further up the coast, but within a few miles miles we passed three more.

Passing by so many water parks was just too much for Sara!  We made a U-turn and pulled over at a roadside hotel near the Aqua Olive Park.  We were there when the gates opened in the morning and basically had the place to ourselves.  It was a really fun (and very refreshing) way to start the day!

Aqua Olive Park in Altinoluk, Turkey

 
-David

Tolls in Turkey

Trying to figure out Turkish tolls

 
Driving in Turkey was a breeze, right up until we ran into our first toll road.  We thought that it would be like any other toll road with a cashier or at least a machine for coins.  Nope!  At the ramp onto the highway we arrived at the toll plaza only to find a sensor with a picture of a card and no other explanation.  Good thing there wasn't an arm, because we rolled on through.

So then we found ourselves on the highway, with no idea how we were going to get off.  That's when things really started getting interesting.  As we neared the exit, we had our fingers and toes crossed that there would be a cashier.  No such luck.  And to make matters worse, this time there were arms to keep us from passing through.

Not knowing what else to do, I pulled the car over to the side of the road and walked up to a little house.  There were two guys inside playing computer games.  In broken English, they were able to explain to me that I needed a "KGS card" and that the only place to get one was at a Shell station seven kilometers down another highway.  And the only way to get to that other highway was to make a U-turn across oncoming traffic, drive a few hundred feet in the wrong direction, and cross over the median.  With no other options, that's just what we did.  We made that U-turn, braved oncoming traffic, found that Shell station, and now we are the proud new owners of our very own KGS card!

-David

Mary's House

Many people believe that after Jesus' death, his mother Mary traveled to Ephesus with St. John and lived there for the remainder of her life.  A small stone house high on a hill above Ephesus is said to be the house where she lived.  Today the house is a small chapel surrounded by gardens.

Mary's house outside of Ephesus

On Sunday mornings a mass is held in the courtyard next to the house.  We were thrilled to attend, and we even arrived about 45 minutes early -- early enough to help set up!  It was a very international service with Chilean, Italian, and Romanian priests and attendees from all over the world -- an experience we will not soon forget!   

The site of services in the courtyard next to Mary's house

Tea with Turks

Turkish apple tea served in a typical tulip-shaped glass

Turks drink a lot of tea -- before meals, after meals, in the morning, during the afternoon, and definitely at night!  We have learned that tea is very important in Turkish culture.  We enjoy it too, especially the apple tea.  The only thing we don't understand is why it is always served in a glass with no handle.  For the first few minutes after receiving the tea we can't even touch the glass because it is so hot.

This brings us to Şirince, a mountain village near Ephesus where we spent the last several nights.  We were wandering around the hills and dirt paths above Şirince when we came across the view below.  We were near a house and walked down the driveway to get a better look.  We were taking it all in when behind us we heard a man's friendly voice say "hello."  We were embarrassed to be caught in his backyard, but he wasn't upset and instead invited us inside for tea.  We accepted right away! 

View over Şirince

So that's how we ended up spending a really interesting couple of hours enjoying tea on the porch with the most amazing view of Şirince getting to know Ali (a Turk), his wife Karla (a Korean), and their four-month-old son Yusuf.  Ali had finished building the house himself only a month before.  Our favorite part was the treehouse in the chestnut tree out back!

Ali's house in Şirince

As the sun went down, we all made our way back into town.  As we reached Ali's mother's house to say goodbye, we could hear lots of voices inside enjoying dinner at the end of a long day of fasting for Ramadan.  It was a very memorable evening for us.

Karla, Ali, and Yusuf in Sirince

Ephesus

Looking out over the ruins at Ephesus

The ruins at Epehesus are amazing.  It doesn't take long to understand the layout of the city and to picture everyday life thousands of years ago.  Ephesus has a government sector, library, public latrines, and a couple of theaters.  Two main streets are flanked by the agora (shopping area), houses of the wealthy residents, and even a brothel.  It feels familiar because our cities today aren't so different from Ephesus, although we do use a lot less marble! 

David in front of the Library of Celcus at Ephesus

Sara seated at the theater in Ephesus

The theater was the main gathering spot in town and after several renovations over hundreds of years it was able to seat up to 25,000 people.  St. Paul gave a sermon in the theater denouncing the paganism of the Ephesians.

We were treated to several impromptu performances while seated in the theater.  First a young girl sang.  She was excellent and the acoustics are phenomenal.  Then a young man started singing.  First he sang "The Impossible Dream."  There were about 50 of us listening and everyone clapped when he finished and several people urged him to sing another song, which he did -- a beautiful version of "Ave Maria."  It was a very fitting song since Mary is believed to have traveled to Ephesus and lived her final years at a house in the area.   
 

Curetes Street in Ephesus - one of the main streets of the ancient city

When people watching is as good as sightseeing

Sometimes the people watching is just as good as the sightseeing.  These people definitely gave the bright white cliffs at Pamukkale a run for their money!

Asking for a sunburn among the Hierapolis ruins

Wait, are you carrying a baby in that blanket?  Up over rocks?  At the top of soaking-wet 200-foot cliffs?

Pamukkale and Hierapolis

Off the coastal roads that we've been driving, but certainly not off the tourist track, Pamukkale is a beautiful (and really odd) spot.

Sara in a thermal pool at Pamukkale

In real life it looks just like it does in the pictures -- like pools of frigid water surrounded by snow.  But in 100+ degree heat, it certainly isn't snow.  Calcium-rich water running over these cliffs for thousands of years has created these huge, white travertine terraces.

David at Pamukkale

As if that's not enough the water sources are also thermal springs.  For thousands of years the warm water has been attracting people to the area.  We can understand why!  The Romans used the hot springs as baths and built the ancient city of Hierapolis on top of the cliffs.  Seeing the ruins juxtaposed with the snow-white travertines was quite a sight!

A tomb at Pamukkale

Sunset at Pamukkale

Muddy!

It wasn't long after hearing about the mud baths in Dalyan that we decided we would have to give them a try!  Word is that the mud bath makes your skin look ten years younger.  Of course, the sun in Turkey makes your skin look ten years older, so maybe it's a wash.  The verdict is still out on that.

Creatures from the black lagoon

Cleaning off in Lake Köyceğiz was quite a treat!

Lake Köyceğiz in Dalyan

Dalyan - Old and New

In Dalyan the river is the dividing line between old and new.  There is about a 2,500 year age difference between what you find on one side of the river and the other.

The old side is the site of the Kaunos ruins and several ancient Lycian tombs.

The ancient theater of Kaunos with the Mediterranean Sea in the distance

Lycian tombs carved into the rock face

The new side of the river is crowded with hotels, restaurants, and shops galore.

Our beautiful riverfront hotel in Dalyan

A River View

After dropping Charles and Christie at Dalaman airport our plan was to head to Dalyan, a beautiful riverside town near Lake Köyceğiz and just a short boat ride from the Mediterranean.  The roads getting into Dalyan weren't great and definitely weren't marked on our Turkey road map, but after stopping for directions and several wrong turns we found our way.  This was the view that greeted us.

The Dalyan River

We are really glad that we found it!

Kas and Kekova - A day on the Mediterranean

The town of Kaş is known for having some of the most beautiful coastline in southern Turkey, which puts it right up there with some of the most beautiful coastline in the world.  That, and the fact that it wasn't much cooler than it had been in Antalya, was enough to convince us that another day on the water was the way to go.  We found a full-day boat trip around the nearby island of Kekova that included lunch, quite a few swimming stops, and a visit to ruins of a sunken city!

Little did we know that it also had a high jump, which became the highlight of the day!

Christie and David mastered the simultaneous high jump while holding hands.  Or as Christie said, "with David pulling me down the whole way!"

Christie and David jumping together off the boat's high jump in Kaş

I didn't quite master that technique, but apparently I did master a technique of my own.  We are calling it the frog jump.  I am wondering if it could be a new Olympic dive?

Sara showing off her frog jump in Kaş

Charles showed off his excellent diving form!

Charles diving into the Mediterranean

The Turks like to give you more than you pay for.  We moved from one bay to another around Kekova swimming, eating, relaxing, and visiting the underwater ruins.  We thought that we were in for a seven-hour ride, but it turned out to last more than nine.  We were still swimming around the time that we thought we would be back to Kaş!  It couldn't have been a more fun last day with Charles and Christie.

~Sara

Farewell and Safe Travels!

Yesterday we dropped off my dad and sister at the airport in Dalaman for their long trip home to Georgia.  It was an incredible two weeks that we'll always remember -- cruising the Bosphorus, exploring the mosques and markets of Istanbul, floating in a hot air balloon over Cappadocia, staying in a cave, jumping off boats into the Mediterranean, and cheering as the car thermometer hit 115 °F.

We left the airport both saying how lucky we are to have such a great father (-in-law) and sister (-in-law).  Thanks for coming all the way to Turkey to visit us and to explore this corner of the world.  What amazing adventures we had!  We miss you already.

Saying goodbye at the Dalaman airport

-David

Beating the Heat

The game plan when we woke up in Antalya was to beat the heat!

Father and son walking in Old Town Antalya

After an early morning wandering around Kaleici, old town Antalya, we made our way to the water.  Seeing a few boats pass by, we collectively schemed to get ourselves onto a boat for a few hours.  We had a great time, although we were taken for a bit of a ride (and not just a boat ride).  This can be looked at in two different ways:

1) We spent an hour sitting in beanbags waiting for the boat to depart while being told the boat would depart in 10 minutes each time we asked, OR

2) We got a free third hour on the two-hour boat ride that we paid for!

Enjoying the breeze from our beanbags once the boat got moving

After the boat ride we headed to a nearby beach that was built into a cliff wall.  No sand here, just pebbles surrounded by the clear, blue, cool Mediterranean Sea.

A public beach in Antalya

We spent the afternoon siesta-ing and didn't head back out until the sun was on its way down!

Our first stop was happy hour.  On the way Charles found the Turkish pretzel man.  First, we had to pose for a picture.  Then, in payment for the picture, we had to buy a pretzel.  Oh well, turned out to be a perfect snack with the local Efes beers!